It is my thorough pleasure and honor to welcome you to the FIRST OFFICIAL ISSUE OF FLAVORFULL. In the future I will definitely keep everyone up to date on fun things going on around me and in my life, but as I am too excited to get down to the nitty gritty, I will surpass the recap in this first issue.
Let’s get to it.
Okay, I’ll bite—What’s Cheugy?
How has this word already become cheugy itself? How does this concept contribute to accelerating micro trends? And WHY does being called cheugy sting so much more than being called ‘basic’?
I was born in the fall of 1997; I get it, I’m not a Harry Potter devotee while most of the contestants on Love Island are younger than me. Therefore, writing on the perceived impact of ‘cheugy’ while it is already in its rapid downfall is, perhaps, extremely cheugy of me.
A quick internet definition: (adj., pronounced CHEW-gee) used to describe something that may have been in style in your lifetime that is decidedly now not. The term, allegedly coined by Gabby Rasson (23), partially zeroes in on trends that were exclusive to the mid-to-late-aughts.
TLDR, the word caught fire. The term is so interesting to me because of the way in which it transformed and declined so rapidly in a strange form a self-actualization. If the rapidly growing use of ‘cheugy’ was an internet forest fire, its crescendo was a blowout, and what’s left behind are burned branches and grass torched way past their viable fuel.
Cheugy in its origin did not mean basic; it meant a dated basic. Think UGGS, think side parts, think jersey t-shirt dresses (I personally moved my side part from right to middle in the 4th quarter of 2015).
The term instinctively thrives on the ever growing internet debate of Gen Z vs. Millennial culture. Gen Z could be basic, but Millennials could be cheugy. It’s the internet equivalent of a 13 year old with a ring light telling you that your lash extensions look uneven. The sting is two fold: firstly, the younger generation is reaching a stage of consciousness where they are beginning to set the new trends and outdate your general existence, and secondly, they’re simply giving you their honest and blunt opinion.
Cheugy now, in its post-modernist definition, is much less specific; it’s as vague as the term post-modernist. In its viral explosion, cheugy was chewed, pulled and stretched into a cover-all term for an interesting phenomenon of fashion micro-trends. What is currently in-style and trendy, if deemed ‘cheugy’ by the general population of Gen Z critics, already has one foot out the door—more simply put: the trend itself is so widespread and ultra-temporary it’s as cheugy as using the term cheugy.
Without the steady rise of fashion content creators during covid, I doubt the internet would cycle through as many micro-trends to the same extent as it does now. ‘Micro-trends’, as Mandy (aka @oldloserinbrooklyn) has coined the term, refers to the rapid circulation of mainstream trends in the fashion cycle, whether they be nods to past eras (ex: avant-basic, coined by Emma Hope Allwood) or abused and overused fast fashion trends that are already on their way out. Micro-trends are inherently different from the larger picture of luxury fashion; these trends are a result of rapid production and equally as rapid dissemination across the internet that has not existed before. If anything, the seasonal buying and production cycle of the luxury fashion sector has slowed in pace during covid; however, fast fashion giants manufacture these micro-trends by locking onto specific concepts that trickle down from designers and move through each concept with increasing speed. Additionally, these companies and the internet have cultivated a symbiotic relationship. If there is a consumer-based shift in the trend, some of these fast fashion brands (ex: Shein) can quickly alter and re-release the product.
Taking the above concepts into consideration and applying them, a ‘cheugy’ example that comes to my mind would be: the rise of the subversive scarf top.
Full transparency, I had not heard of Charlotte Knowles before I attended the SS20 show in London; after that, I was hooked. The particular standout trend of the collection, as pictured above (left), was her several iterations of scarf wrap tops and scarf/corset combo bustiers. Once this collection was in stores, these distinctly identifiable ensembles (more specifically the tops) were quickly seen on the likes of celebrities such as Kim Kardashian. Fast forward through a ‘it’s not blue, it’s cerulean’ stream of logic, and we have the current micro-trend of scarf tops (pictured above, right). The reason that I find this particular trend a good example of what cheugy has come to mean is because I find it easily identifiable to connect Point A: a trend set by a luxury designer at Fashion Week two years prior to Point B: subversive scarf wrap tops being sold from ASOS to Zaful that are being seen on brunch-goers world wide.
Cheugy, like almost any other term in fashion is extremely subjective to the eye of the beholder; that being said, I believe the combination of the instant popularity of this particular trend, coupled with its extreme over saturation in mainstream dressing styles, signals it’s ‘cheugy-ness’. I will most likely forget about these scarf tops in 7 months time the same way that I will forget about the word ‘cheugy’ in the same period. Frankly, after writing this on ‘cheugy’ and making three TikTok videos on what constitutes as ‘basic’ I would be perfectly content to never analyze either word again. Now THAT being said, if a 17 year old called my Mcnally’s canvas tote bag cheugy, I would probably still be very hurt. If anything, it’s something to chew on, some food for fashion thought.
Trend Prediction: Phoebe Philo’s return will reignite the reign of the carry-all Hobo
*PSA all trend predictions are purely my personal opinion. I could be totally wrong; this is not legally binding and please continue to wear whatever makes you happiest.
My first conscious perception of a purse was certainly a shoulder bag (like this Dries Van Noten Shoulder Bag). Forget clutch, forget crossbody, forget baguette bag. If you asked me what a purse was at the age of 7, I would probably show you a photo of a crinkled leather slouchy hobo bag large enough that you could legally charge rent for it in NYC. Now, in 2005 I actually was 7, and during this time a Marc Jacobs IT bag was born: the Stam bag. (*disclaimer: the MJ bag they reference in The Devil Wears Prada, pictured above, is the Blake Hobo Satchel)
Now, the Stam bag was an instant icon: large, neutral, useable. During the same mid-aughts era, Phoebe Philo began to forge her way at Céline’s mast as a designer of effortlessly chic and editorial yet simple silhouettes (think a less angsty The Row customer). Since her tenure at the brand formerly known as Céline, Celine has undergone a highly publicized transformation and Philo has quietly remained in the background, until now. For those who have not seen, Phoebe Philo is returning to fashion with a namesake brand that will be backed by LVMH. It is expected to launch in early 2022.
I believe that among the many reasons why her return to fashion is exciting (& positive!!) is that we are nearing a close of y2k’s revival. That’s not to say that that y2k’s prominent revival will die out instantly, but as we are generally on a soft 20 year trend cycle, I believe we will follow the natural course of fashion and push on through to a revisited, elevated version of the mid-aughts. This editing is the same way in which we always pick and choose when returning to a style era: low rise pants may be back now but no one has forgotten the ties for belts and furry boleros over a t-shirt on the red carpet.
Again, I am very excited for Phoebe Philo’s return to fashion and I think she will hopefully revitalize her effortless aesthetic that people have come to love and expect from her. But why the Stam bag you ask? Well, I’ve recently had a personal inkling that we were shifting back towards this old Céline aesthetic. Additionally, I have also recently been on the sudden and urgent hunt for a hobo shoulder bag myself, like this Prada Denim Hobo, when I saw Taylor McCalls’s tweet:
I thought to myself—are we all subconsciously consuming such similar media that something is quite literally directing us to the return of this aesthetic? Or—is it currently so out of fashion that it’s a challenge to make it fashionable again? Considering how fast the hobo bags in my Real Real wishlist, such as this Miu Miu bag or this Balenciaga city bag, have been flying out the door while I’ve mulled over which to save up for, I think we are definitely on the precipice of this once again relaxed but polished era. That’s where we’re heading once again: clean, editorial, business-casual, paired with a bag large enough to hide all your problems in.
It’s not laziness, it’s leisure.
My Midsommar Moodboard
We’ve officially reached what I like the call the hibernation era of summer. Temperature is at it’s peak and with Covid regulations freshly lifted in many cities across the country, many of us are officially entering a summer burnout. Remember this time last year when we said we’d never be late to a party again, we’d even help set up? For myself at least, I’m taking a beat and focusing on myself, work, and starting this newsletter. That being said, here are some things I plan to enjoy for the rest of the summer.
I am at a rare opportunity as a young New Yorker—my roommates and I have signed to stay in our apartment for another two years. To feel no longer transient, even temporarily in NYC, is a great feeling and a great opportunity to actually move into my room. I have never been particularly good at nesting, interior design and small tchotchkes are by no means my strong suit. But I think I want to take down my current magazine wall and restructure with more natural decorations, starting with a bedside table like this umbra acrylic table or this more affordable option for a similar effect.
As some of those who follow me on TikTok may know, I have a small dog. And she sheds. A lot. So what could be more indulgent in my summer self-care hibernation than this French ostrich duster?
As for what I wish I’ll be wearing to weather out this midsommar heatwave, I can certainly picture myself mysteriously walking my dog to Tompkins wearing this Chopova Lowena dress paired with my platform crocs accessorized with these croc chains, a lower budget DIY of my favorite goth crocs. For my carrying needs, please refer to this Marni Woven Bucket Bag or this Kule Canvas crossbody tote.
For some of the books I have been reading in my pensive park time, please continue reading below.
Book Club #002
I, Claudius, Robert Graves- (3.5/5)
It’s an adult Percy Jackson. Albeit, there are less mythological creatures and more mortal men believing that they themselves are Gods to be worshipped, this book is a fun and creative approach to historical fiction. The book is set from the POV of an autobiography written by the Roman Emperor Claudius (40 AD) and gives a vast demonstration of how absurd Roman and familial Politics were and a satirical nod towards how little has changed. My only wish is that the autobiography felt more like a personal narrative rather than a historical account of his surroundings. That being said, I enjoyed the content, learned a few things, and am considering reading the sequel.
A Place for Us, Fatima Farheen Mirza- (4/5)
It’s very rare that I feel I’ve experienced a novel as a slow burn in a good way. Usually if I feel a book is too much of a slow burn despite people’s protestations of ‘just wait!’, I’ll toss the book aside to my DNF pile (Did Not Finish, but still bookmarked JIC I try again). This book built itself in a very different way. From the beginning, the subject matter and narrative captured my attention following a Muslim Indian family’s interpersonal relations in California. Though there is not much action per se, as the majority of the novel takes place surrounding the eldest daughter’s wedding, Mirza’s words slowly and surely emotionally draw you into the family dynamic as one of their own.
The Forty Rules of Love, Elif Shafak- (~almost a 4)
A desperate housewife, a centuries old master of words, The Forty Rules of Love travels in between 21st century Massachusetts and 13th century Turkey following the lives of a housewife severely lacking in love and the poet of love himself, Rumi. In all honestly, the beginning format is a bit clunky as it’s staged as a manuscript within a book, however once the narrative is up and moving Shafak does an incredible job at examining the search for universal truth through the lens of love over the course of Rumi’s and Ella’s lives. I so so so badly want to give this book a 4 on the grounds of how fast I sped through it and found the subject matter extremely interesting, but the only thing that is holding me back is a lingering wish for more refined prose on such a beautiful topic.
*Currently Reading: Crying in H-Mart, A Memoir, Michelle Zauner
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